HomeCultureTantalizing the taste buds: A survey of Bengali gastronomic appropriation of English...

Tantalizing the taste buds: A survey of Bengali gastronomic appropriation of English Tastes

A very convenient and facile way of cultural appropriation is undeniably through intervention in the existing gastronomic practices. In this context, we can easily locate the impression cast by European dietary practices in varying degrees, mainly English, on the various regions in the Indian subcontinent, depending on their nature of consumption. The piece presents an overview of the changes brought about in Bengal’s culinary traditions by British involvement in terms of ingredients, eating spaces, consuetudes, nomenclature etc.

Modifications had begun to creep into the staple Bengali paddy-based diet accompanied by lentils, fish, etc. in various forms with the European introduction of exotic edible articles like potato, chillies, papaya, etc along with baked confectionery. With the complete takeover by the British of Bengal by the 19th century this transformation was almost comprehensively realised by the ready absorption of these unfamiliar products into the domestic Bengali platter, of course, confined to those who could afford these, the elites and the burgeoning bourgeois.

Indian Coffee House, Kolkata 
Source- Wikimedia 

The urban cityscape came to be dotted with eateries like coffee houses, pice hotels, cabins etc. to cater to an extensive compass of customers, right from European sahebs to the migrant labour, who thronged the metropolis with the onset of industrialization. The quintessential example of the former happens to be the Indian Coffee House, Kolkata, established in the 19th century which became the locus for the Bengali intelligentsia, British gourmets, after the English invested considerably in coffee production. They become inclusive ‘public spaces’ that catalysed interactions on a myriad of issues right from contemporary politics to business.

The inception of industrialization ushered in an era of massive socio-cultural changes in urbanisation, lifestyle and eventually gastronomic practices. For a migrant, adjusting to the expensive city life was excruciatingly difficult until the late 19th century when pice hotels (derived from paisa) serving extremely cheap yet healthy, homely food, began to burgeon in the  Black Town, spatially the North and Central parts, commonly inhabited by the marginalized communities. In the grappling Cosmopolis, these hotels their traditional cuisine helped combat homesickness and nostalgia, with an array of daily changing menus, for the lower-income groups. 

Fern Hotel & Restaurant
Source – Wikimedia

A glaring change in the nomenclature of some Bengali items became manifest either through improvisation of existing Bengali names or by curating appropriate Bangla parallels for European names like murgi cutlets, dimer devil (Scotch eggs) etc. all customary English dishes, that became our very own with the application of desi spices and additional ingredients. Indian-owned eateries with English names, inclination towards confection like biscuits, loaves, chocolate etc served those that couldn’t be produced, consumed within the confines of private sphere especially non-veg products like chicken-based dishes, alcoholic beverages etc. This added to a process of refashioning the Bengali identity through clothing, gastronomy, European articles like soap etc, that now began to absorb colonial culture to increase their social acceptability.

Public restaurants, which were open to all who could afford catalysed a camaraderie cutting across caste lines in an otherwise orthodox societal establishment. Sharing of tables, use of ‘public’ cutlery etc. loosened the insulation that characterised the compartments of a caste conscious society, especially for the educated upper classes. Moreover, the concept of cabins serving dishes of exotic influence, had eating spaces compartmentalised into private segments through curtains, ply doors, now modified into shutters,  increased privacy in dining and participation of conservative women in these public spaces where they could dine without being scrutinized by unwanted gaze.

Source- Wikimedia

This transition from an indigenous stringent code of consumption to a highly stylized Western-pattern significantly by the well-versed echelons of the society has several repercussions that played out as significant components of sociocultural transitions during the reformist and the revivalist movements. At times, food became an important actor to substantiate that transition. For example, the Young Bengal Movement is said to have been led by the Eurasian teacher and reformer Henry Vivian Derozio and his progressive coterie of students made drinking alcohol and dining in forbidden meats like beef and ham, central to his mission of initiating progress, rationalism and a scientific temper. Consumption of biscuits, bread etc. manufactured usually by Muslims, lower-caste Hindus other than Europeans, was also a manifestation of resisting and transcending caste-based norms of comportment.

If carefully pondered upon, the various changes looked at in the preceding paragraphs, hint at an emerging social identity with consumption pattern as one of the ways in which it has been done, others being the female body, the issue of the cow, etc. across time and space but as a part of the same socio-economic-political processes. Adapting oneself to the English pattern of dining, came to indicate a sense of self-escalation that could be used to counter the very allegations made against them. However, this was very urbane in nature owing to the city’s proximity to the English babus, a luxury that rural Bengal or broadly rural India couldn’t afford, that kept the authenticity of their food alive. With industrialization, both the spaces became dynamically liked to one another, leading to the permeation of foreign goods into the countryside. This form of cultural interaction gave birth to an entirely new Calcutta that was gripped by colonialism until some decided to let the yoke off. 

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From Dhanbad, a history graduate from LSR. Currently a first year Masters student in Delhi University. I religiously experiment with cuisines! I spend my free time drooling over fictional characters and listening to music. Personally follow and urge everyone to follow the 'live and let live' principle in life. Current Role: interning with ITISARAS as a writer. Ultimate goal: To help create consciousness about animal-welfare and be of help in the strive for universal education. Biggest achievement: helping an adolescent with no educational background learn the basics of language, to read and write. Educational Qualification: History graduate, currently a Masters student at Delhi University.

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  167. There are some attention-grabbing closing dates on this article but I don?t know if I see all of them center to heart. There’s some validity but I’ll take hold opinion till I look into it further. Good article , thanks and we want more! Added to FeedBurner as properly

  168. Thanks for this article. I would also like to state that it can become hard when you find yourself in school and just starting out to initiate a long credit standing. There are many scholars who are only trying to make it and have a lengthy or positive credit history can be a difficult element to have.

  169. Thx for your post. I would like to say that the price of car insurance varies from one plan to another, due to the fact there are so many different facets which play a role in the overall cost. For example, the make and model of the auto will have a tremendous bearing on the price. A reliable ancient family automobile will have an inexpensive premium compared to a flashy expensive car.

  170. Some tips i have observed in terms of computer system memory is there are features such as SDRAM, DDR and the like, that must match the specific features of the mother board. If the pc’s motherboard is pretty current and there are no os issues, changing the ram literally normally takes under one hour. It’s one of several easiest personal computer upgrade procedures one can consider. Thanks for giving your ideas.

  171. Great post. I was checking continuously this weblog and I am impressed! Extremely useful info particularly the ultimate part 🙂 I maintain such information a lot. I used to be seeking this certain info for a very lengthy time. Thank you and best of luck.

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  173. I have seen plenty of useful factors on your web-site about pcs. However, I’ve got the view that laptop computers are still more or less not powerful enough to be a wise decision if you usually do jobs that require a lot of power, just like video touch-ups. But for net surfing, word processing, and the majority of other common computer work they are just great, provided you never mind the screen size. Many thanks sharing your thinking.

  174. We would also like to express that most people who find themselves without having health insurance are normally students, self-employed and people who are out of work. More than half with the uninsured are really under the age of Thirty-five. They do not experience they are wanting health insurance because they’re young in addition to healthy. Its income is often spent on housing, food, as well as entertainment. Most people that do represent the working class either full or not professional are not given insurance by way of their work so they go without owing to the rising expense of health insurance in the us. Thanks for the tips you reveal through your blog.

  175. Thanks for the concepts you are sharing on this site. Another thing I would like to say is always that getting hold of copies of your credit rating in order to look at accuracy of any detail is the first step you have to conduct in credit score improvement. You are looking to thoroughly clean your credit profile from detrimental details flaws that screw up your credit score.

  176. Thanks for the recommendations on credit repair on this blog. What I would offer as advice to people should be to give up the actual mentality they will buy currently and shell out later. Like a society all of us tend to do this for many things. This includes vacations, furniture, as well as items we wish. However, you’ll want to separate a person’s wants from all the needs. As long as you’re working to improve your credit rating score actually you need some trade-offs. For example you’ll be able to shop online to save cash or you can click on second hand suppliers instead of high priced department stores intended for clothing.

  177. I was just seeking this information for a while. After six hours of continuous Googleing, finally I got it in your website. I wonder what’s the lack of Google strategy that do not rank this kind of informative sites in top of the list. Normally the top web sites are full of garbage.

  178. According to my research, after a property foreclosure home is offered at a sale, it is common with the borrower to be able to still have the remaining balance on the financial loan. There are many lenders who aim to have all rates and liens paid back by the next buyer. Even so, depending on certain programs, regulations, and state laws and regulations there may be a number of loans which aren’t easily sorted out through the exchange of lending products. Therefore, the obligation still remains on the borrower that has acquired his or her property foreclosed on. Thank you sharing your ideas on this website.

  179. Thanks a lot for sharing this with all people you really understand what you are talking approximately! Bookmarked. Please also consult with my web site =). We could have a link alternate agreement among us!

  180. Thank you for another informative website. Where else could I get that kind of info written in such a perfect way? I’ve a project that I am just now working on, and I have been on the look out for such information.

  181. whoah this blog is great i really like studying your articles. Stay up the good paintings! You recognize, many persons are hunting around for this info, you could help them greatly.

  182. Thanks for the recommendations you have shared here. Another thing I would like to mention is that pc memory demands generally go up along with other advancements in the know-how. For instance, whenever new generations of processors are made in the market, there’s usually a related increase in the size calls for of all computer memory and hard drive space. This is because the program operated by simply these processors will inevitably increase in power to make use of the new engineering.

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  184. Thanks for your publiction. Another item is that being a photographer requires not only trouble in capturing award-winning photographs and also hardships in getting the best digital camera suited to your needs and most especially hardships in maintaining the quality of your camera. This can be very correct and apparent for those photography fans that are in capturing the nature’s interesting scenes – the mountains, the actual forests, the actual wild or perhaps the seas. Going to these adventurous places absolutely requires a camera that can meet the wild’s tough settings.

  185. Through my examination, shopping for gadgets online may be easily expensive, nonetheless there are some how-to’s that you can use to help you get the best offers. There are constantly ways to find discount promotions that could help make one to come across the best gadgets products at the smallest prices. Thanks for your blog post.

  186. It’s perfect time to make some plans for the future and it is time to be happy. I have read this put up and if I may I desire to counsel you some fascinating things or advice. Perhaps you could write subsequent articles relating to this article. I desire to read more issues approximately it!

  187. Excellent goods from you, man. I have bear in mind your stuff previous to and you are simply too great. I actually like what you’ve received here, certainly like what you’re saying and the best way in which you are saying it. You’re making it entertaining and you continue to care for to keep it sensible. I cant wait to learn far more from you. This is really a wonderful site.

  188. Nearly all of what you say is astonishingly accurate and that makes me ponder why I had not looked at this with this light before. Your piece truly did turn the light on for me personally as far as this specific topic goes. But at this time there is 1 factor I am not really too comfortable with so while I attempt to reconcile that with the core idea of the point, allow me observe exactly what all the rest of the subscribers have to point out.Well done.

  189. I’ve come across that these days, more and more people are being attracted to cameras and the field of images. However, really being a photographer, you must first shell out so much time period deciding the model of dslr camera to buy along with moving store to store just so you may buy the lowest priced camera of the brand you have decided to choose. But it isn’t going to end there. You also have to take into consideration whether you should buy a digital camera extended warranty. Many thanks for the good points I obtained from your website.

  190. I have really learned newer and more effective things through your website. One other thing I’d prefer to say is newer computer system operating systems usually allow a lot more memory to be played with, but they likewise demand more ram simply to run. If someone’s computer cannot handle much more memory along with the newest software requires that memory space increase, it might be the time to shop for a new PC. Thanks

  191. I’m typically to running a blog and i really respect your content. The article has actually peaks my interest. I’m going to bookmark your site and hold checking for brand spanking new information.

  192. One thing I’ve noticed is always that there are plenty of common myths regarding the banking institutions intentions any time talking about foreclosure. One fable in particular is the fact the bank wishes to have your house. The lender wants your cash, not your property. They want the funds they lent you along with interest. Keeping away from the bank will draw a foreclosed summary. Thanks for your publication.

  193. I?m not sure where you are getting your information, but good topic. I needs to spend some time learning more or understanding more. Thanks for magnificent information I was looking for this information for my mission.

  194. It is the best time to make a few plans for the long run and it is time to be happy. I have learn this submit and if I could I wish to suggest you few fascinating things or advice. Perhaps you could write subsequent articles relating to this article. I wish to learn even more issues approximately it!

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