– In The Lodi Gardens, Octavio Paz, Translated by Eliot Weinberger
‘I asked my soul – What is Delhi?
She replied – The world is the body and Delhi it’s life .’ – Mirza Ghalib
The name of the city stirs a flurry of emotions in one’s chest – invoking the multifaceted cultural legacy associated with the city. History everywhere – in the scent of agarbattis wafting from pujas to the sound of sizzling pakoras at the roadside fast food stalls, in the cracked old paint on the walls of the dim havelis of Old Delhi and the row of well-lit hotels opposite the airport. With its rustic charms and chic vibe, Delhi is irresistible – the city commands attention.
One might argue that the true essence of the city lies in its architecture. Colossal structures erected as an appreciation of beauty or commemoration of a lover or a remarkable man long gone – these works of art have truly withstood the sands of time – constant presences in Delhi’s dynamic landscape. The city has flourished as millions from over the continent and abroad flock to these monuments every year to revel in their grandeur.
Trailing behind the lengthy accounts of the numerous foreign travellers who found themselves dumbstruck by the beauty of Delhi’s spaces, came Octavio Paz. The Mexican Nobel Laureate poet travelled to India for the first time in 1952 and was then appointed the Mexican Ambassador to India from 1962-1968. His time in India as an ambassador was spent travelling across the country and making observations, and Delhi was the place that fascinated him to no end. The culture and architecture of the city enamoured him and became a recurring theme in his writing.
Paz called Delhi’s architecture ‘an assemblage of images more than buildings’. In the accounts of his Indian experience ‘In Light Of India’ (1995) – Paz wrote extensively on Delhi, intertwining history, society and architecture, never seeing them as isolated. One of his most commendable works influenced by India remains his collection of poetry, A Tale Of Two Gardens (1997). The anthology consisted of 18 poems, most of them dedicated to his experiences in the Indian subcontinent, particularly it’s monuments. His description of the Lodi Gardens in In The Lodi Gardens is strikingly beautiful –
The black, pensive, dense
Domes of the mausoleums
Suddenly shot birds
Into the unanimous blues
– Translated by Eliot Weinberger
‘The poetry of Octavio Paz,’ wrote the critic Ramon Xirau, ‘does not hesitate between language and silence; it leads into the silence where true language lives.’ Paz engaged with the idea of ‘architecture of silence’. Here, he recreates exactly what he sees, placing different images next to each other to create a single surreal image, a single still of the landscape that can evoke powerful emotions. These lines seem to have a Romantic quality to them, and one could almost place themselves in the imagery – taking a stroll in the gardens and suddenly awestruck by the sight of the birds flying up, completely in harmony with nature. In another of his works, The Tomb Of Amir Khusru ( A Tale Of Two Gardens ), an ode to Amir Khusru, one of the most celebrated poets of India and Saint Nizamuddin’s disciple, he begins by writing –
Trees heavy with birds hold
The afternoon up with their hands.
Arches and patios. A tank of water, poison green,
Between red walls. A corridor leads to the sanctuary :
Beggars, flowers, leprosy, marble.
Tombs, two names, their stories :
Nizam Uddin, the wandering theologian,
Amir Khusru, the parrot’s tongue.
The saint and the poet.
Images that might not have any erstwhile connection- the landscape imagery and the narrative of the poet’s life interweave to create a vision of the monument and an experience for the reader. It is evidence of how deep an impact Delhi left on Octavio Paz in his six-year stay in the country- his works have immortalised the monuments in the most captivating way possible.
In the constant bustle of life, however, choosing to surpass something seemingly trivial or unknown in favour of something that you are acquainted with is a common occurrence. How many times have you decided to spend your weekend on a trip to the Lotus Temple or a picnic at the Lodi Gardens, instead of trying to explore more of the city’s enigmatic gallis? In a place of such diverse architectural masterpieces, how many of them are actually documented and how many are overshadowed in favour of more mainstream attractions? Contemporary lifestyle hardly allows for such leisures of exploring spaces unheard of – the once in a while casual post hardly seems to do any justice, is there anyone who can?
Mayank Austen Soofi, a Delhi-based Indian writer, blogger and photojournalist seems to have taken upon the task of accomplishing just that. With unquenchable curiosity and a flair for storytelling, Soofi is best known for his website and blog: The Delhi Walla; a multifaceted guide to the city- where he writes compelling articles on the culture, lifestyle and literary landscapes of Delhi. His articles paint a portrait of the city before your eyes- be it snapshots from his day observing city life or appreciating an obscure wondrous architectural piece – as he traverses through Delhi. In one of his articles in the Hindustan Times titled Delhiwale: Lesser-known historical edifices, he takes us to Green Park, a locality in South Delhi, to explore two of the city’s lesser-known structures- Dadi-Poti Ka Gumbad (big dome), or the dome of grandmother-granddaughter. He commences by saying-
‘In a city where almost all monuments commemorate male rulers, it is a relief to come across centuries-old landmarks enshrined to women- who, additionally, might have had nothing to do with royalty. They might indeed be as common as we are.’
His account throws light on the erasure of women’s identity through the nation’s history (‘One can only regret not knowing who these two women were, besides being somebody’s Dadi’ or ‘Poti’) along with a detailed description of both the monuments- hence adding a new perspective to writing and monuments of the city.
The city of Delhi evolves daily and stirs the writers’ muse- with it’s glorious legacy and aspirations, inspiring writers eager to discover the new perspectives the city has gained . Nothing parallels the beauty of the city documented in the free- flowing verse of the poet or the author , etching and preserving the city’s identity for generations to come.
Manavi is a second year English major at Lady Shri Ram College For Women . Aside from being a voracious reader, she is intent in exploring cultural differences and languages across the world and also has a keen interest in mental health .
Wow amazing Article!! 💜
“Could’nt have been written better than this” As I read through the article,it really felt as i was there and enjoying the images of the city vicarisouly.
One of the finest peice of artice on the city and a compelling read
That was the most beautiful article I have read in my life and my liking has no end. A very informative Keep it up!
Very thoughtful and detailed
Hello! Would you mind іf I shɑre your blog with my twitter ցroup?
There’s a lot of folks that I think would reallʏ enjoy your content.
Please let me know. Cheers